Welcome to your Hyper 7 Guide! Thank you for your purchase.
In your Hyper 7 parcel you will recieve:
- Hyper 7 PCB
- Stainless Steel Bent Plate Piece
- Stainless Steel Bent Bottom Piece
- 3 x Connector Strips
- Screws, Standoffs & Feet
Your Stainless Steel plates will be covered with a protective film. This is to protect the brushed surface from any scratches/marks. This can be removed before assembly, and will leave residue around the cut marks. The majority of these marks will not be visible once switches and keycaps are on. If you wish to remove these anyway, or if there are some visible ones, they can be cleaned with a cloth if needed.
On the backside of the plates there will be some tooling/bend marks – this is part of the manufacturing procedure and something we cannot omit. We have made sure that most of these marks will be on the inside of the finished keyboard case.
The PCB will need to be broken into 2 pieces – this may have happened in shipping. Do not worry if this has happened as it does not affect the PCB or the assembly process.
Remove the protective film on both pieces. It’s a bit sticky!
Break the two PCB pieces apart if they have not already. It is best to quickly flash the PCB now and test that at least the bottom half is working correctly before proceeding. There will be information on how to flash the PCB further down on this page.
Solder the connector strips into place on the underside of the 2 PCB parts (connector strip on the side of the USB cable, pins protruding onto the opposite side) You will have to cut the 3rd strip to size. All holes need to be connected to their in-line counterpart. The connector strips will need to be bent to shape to fit within the case.
Now both halves are connected, please test it again. Depending on your system, some keys will not work yet. THIS IS NORMAL. The Hyper 7 has so many switches not all are registered to an output your system recognises.
Place all stabilisers that you require for your layout. If purchased, a bag of 30 clip in or screw in stabilisers are included. If you are planning on using all 1 u keycaps, you can skip this step.
Assemble the screws and standoffs into the top metal plate piece. There will be 10 in total around the edge. The holes under the support feet are legacy and unused. You can use these to print 3d feet which will allow you to add angle to the keyboard.
Place switches into the corners, and middle, of each PCB section into the metal plate. Then you will be able to align the PCB into place. Be aware that placing one end of the PCB into place and then trying to align the other side may mean the other end won’t fit, so try and align the PCB with the switches using the middle switches, and then pushing down on either end. Once in place, you can solder these into place. You’ll need to rely on good old fashioned trial and error here to get it into place.
Solder the remaining switches into place. There is a lot!
Align the PCB and plate part onto the base piece, and screw together using the leftover screws. The USB socket will be accessible through the whole in the bottom plate.
Flashing the PCB
This part of the guide is a WIP and will be regularly changing.
Your PCB will come with the bootloader already flashed onto it, but you’ll still need to flash the keymap yourself before you can use or test the PCB. For those who want to keep things simple, just download QMK toolbox then flash it with this hex file.
Once successfully flashed you should have a basic but working Hyper7.
If you’re using Windows you’ll need to follow this short guide to enable Unicode.